John Callery
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St. Jude’s Church (Spire) Inchicore Road, Kilmainham.
Architects Welland and Gillespie .
John Callery, July 2000.St. JUDE’S CHURCH was opened for public worship on 2nd January, 1864.
This church was fortunate (as it seemed) to have been built in one of the most historic districts in Ireland. It had a very noble and historical past but unfortunately St. Jude’s was destined to suffer a most ignoble and barbaric end.St. Jude’s was founded as a direct result of the efforts of the Rev.Thomas Mills who was born in Longford in 1825, educated in Trinity College and who was minister in Golden Bridge in the late 1850s. Mainly because of the increase in the numbers in the locality as a result of the coming of the Great Southern and Western Railway to Inchicore, the Rev. T. Mills felt the need for a parish church to be built near at hand. Mostly due his personal influence in the locality, St. Jude’s was built and opened for public worship on Saturday 2nd January 1864, and was consecrated by the Rev. Richard Chenevix Trench (late Dean of Westminister), who was the previous day consecrated Archbishop of Dublin. The Irish Times of Monday 4th January 1864 describes the church as “beautiful and perfect in design†also it is reported that.
“St. Jude’s Church occupies a very pleasant and picturesque site on the road leading directly from the Royal Hospital to Richmondâ€. The consecration was the first official act of Archbishop Trench.The laying of the foundation stone for the new church was the last official act performed by Archbishop Whately (who was then Archbishop of Dublin) on Friday October 24th 1863. Also among a very numerous and respectable assemblage was Sir Robert Peel, Chief Secretary for Ireland who resided in the vicinity and who said the following (an extract) on the occasion of laying the stone.
“ It is to me a very pleasing task, and under any circumstances I should be very glad to have witnessed this ceremony, because it has reference to the erection of a church for the benefit of and the spiritual wants of those who reside in the immediate vicinity of the place in which I also live; and I am happy to say there is nothing inconsistent with the most strict and impartial discharge, of the official duties of which I am charged, that I should co-operate with my neighbours in so interesting a workâ€
(Applause) A voice- “ Three cheers for Sir Robert Peelâ€. (Loud applause)
It was also here that the Rev. Archbishop Plunkett preached his first sermon as Archbishop of Dublin. St. Jude’s was also the first church in Ireland in which a public
Harvest Thanksgiving Service was held.A war memorial subscription was opened in March 1919, for a suitably designed marble tablet in memory of those members of the parish who died in the Great War.
During the 1914-1918 War, 24 young men from St. Jude’s parish gave their lives.The history of the church mirrors the rise and fall of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company. Which like railway tracks runs in parallel to the coming to the district of Inchicore / Kilmainham of Dublin’s first, if not the South’s first industrial heavy engineering workers. These workers came with their skills from the great industrial cities (Crewe, Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool) of England to build Dublin’s set piece of the industrial revolution , the trains, tracks and all the ancillary and associated developments of the G.S.& W.R. company. Many of their descendants still live in the district.
The congregation of St. Jude’s faded with the passing of time and the political changes in the country after independence. Their church would have been a fitting memorial to the heritage of the pioneer railway workers and subsequent generations of Inchicore railway workers and engineers if St. Jude’s had not been demolished in 1988. The greatest irony of all is that it now stands in Straffan Co. Kildare having been “rebuilt in a formâ€and is called “The Steam Museumâ€. !! The saddest and most confusing thing of all is to read the plaque mounted on the wall of the “transplanted†St. Jude’s:
“ This heritage building is reinstated from the architectural details of the church of St. Jude where many 19th century steam engineers associated with the railway works at Inchicore worshippedâ€.
This “heritage buildingâ€!! in Straffan contains among other things a collection of model railway engines and artefacts from the railways, it should more aptly be called the Inchicore Heritage Museum and there it stands today on private lands in a rural, non industrial non tourist area, some 30 miles from where it was built while the Spire remains standing defiantly/proudly alone on Inchicore Road adjacent to Dublin’s foremost historical tourist attraction Kilmainham Gaol/Museum. Robert Guinness availed of Bord Failte and E.U. funding to “reinstate†in a form (minus the spire and integrity of St. Jude’s) this heritage centre. What a great and necessary tourist attraction was denied Kilmainham. This “ Inchicore industrial heritage museum†in Co. Kildare was officially opened by the president of the time, President Mary Robinson on July 9th 1991. Do we remember her gallant fight to save Wood Quay!!
Agreed, it sounds like a story straight out of fiction!!
Tony Byrne optimistically states in his article (written in 1990) that the lesson to be learned from the senseless destruction of St. Jude’s is that “it will be some time before a developer or the Corporation take it upon themselves to knock down a church in Dublin againâ€.
In less than 6 years (some time indeed !!) after the main body of St. Jude’s was destroyed, the former Methodist Church that stood on Tyreconnell Road, Inchicore opposite the TSB bank was also demolished no more than 500 yds from the remaining Spire of St. Jude’s !!! This church like St. Jude’s was also built to serve the spiritual needs of the pioneer Victorian railway workers who lived in the district. Another “railway churchâ€/ potential heritage centre for our historic area was destroyed by a JCB at 3am on a Sunday morning.
I know, it defies belief !!
The potential for our district in terms of tourism and heritage (despite the wanton destruction and neglect of the so recent past) has yet to be realised. On our doorstep we have a wide range of architectural styles and types. Kilmainham Gaol, The Memorial Park, the Royal Hospital, The Richmond Tower, the Railway Works, what remains of the old Richmond Barracks, and all adjacent to where the waters flow of the Liffey, Camac and the Grand Canal. No place in Dublin is blessed with as many historical attractions or examples of the finest of Victorian vernacular architecture as our place.
I too like Tony Byrne want to be optimistic for the future. Surely by now lessons have been learned. It will be interesting to read another article written maybe a decade from now on how our district has progressed / regressed. I am still very concerned for the future, as only this beautiful evening (July 20th 2000) I was out pushing my 14th month son ( Gavin John) past Kilmainham Jail on our way to the Memorial Park, when I noticed a planning application for a proposed three no. 6 storey office block development (57,000 m sq !!!) right opposite Kilmainham Gaol. Surely a developer will not be allowed to out-scale Kilmainham Jail and The Richmond Tower by the building of these proposed glass towers and destroy a most perfect tourism site. What an eternal waste of such a magnificent site this would be. Time will tell!! If ever a perfect heritage site for Kilmainham / Inchicore if not the city existed is here opposite the Jail, where every serious tourist to Dublin comes to visit , only to hang about aimlessly after visiting the Jail. Check back in 2010 !!
YES, THIS REALLY HAPPENED (NOT THAT LONG AGO).
THE BATTLE FOR ST. JUDE’S
By Tony Byrne. July 1990.Coming up the new motorway from Chapelizod one of the first striking features against the skyline is the Spire of St. Jude’s. When I saw it the other evening it brought me back to the events of a few years ago surrounding the sale and demolition of the beautiful little church which once stood beside the spire. A very eventual time indeed ! The meetings, the picketing, the court cases, the injunctions, the whole campaign came flooding back in my mind.
For nearly six months a small group of people kept at bay the demolition crew and their employer, Robert Guinness. John and Kay Swords, Anthony Brady, Noleen Day,
Derek Noyes, Michael Shortt, Catherine Brady, Evanna O’Boyle, Nuala Hayes, Maureen McGowan, Michael Conaghan. I’m sure I’ve left out names especially the countless people who just dropped by to encourage us and wish us luck.I’ll always remember the second court case when the Gardai were at the back of the court ready to take Derek Noyes and Michael Conaghan off and at the last moment the judge put it back for a week and the young guard said to me “that was a close oneâ€
Although the battle was 50% lost it was still worth it. St. Jude’s was an important building. Inchicore, in its modern phase grew out of the coming of the Railways to the area and the church was an integral part of that important development. As such it was a tangible reminder of our past. It was also a significant local landmark and helped extend character and colour to the areas landscape. There is nothing more dull or monotonous than total uniformity in size and shape of buildings in an area. We need variety of shapes, colours, building materials, provided of course there is also present good design and taste.
St. Jude’s had all of these. It had character. It had good design. It had been well cared for. At one time it meant everything to a section of our people. It represented and expressed their deepest religious beliefs and feelings. It was living memorial to all the people who came into the area to work on the Railways. It should have remained as such – a living memorial.
You don’t have to be a genius to work out how it could how it could have easily have been adapted for some other use without loosing it’s dignity. This is what is happening now. Buildings are been adapted if they happen to outlive their original purpose. Imagine the architectural wasteland we would if we just pulled down buildings because their original purpose was superseded by the passing of time! That approach is the mark of the barbarian or the developer! I think it may be some time again before a “developer†or the Corporation (City authorities) take it upon themselves to knock down a church in Dublin. This is the real victory for the St. Jude’s campaign.
The spire remains standing and it is widely valued as a landmark. Space remains at the base of it and I understand the Heritage Group has planned to construct a small museum or heritage centre there if money was provided. They have spent their existing funds securing the site and putting in the foundations for this small building. It’s the least Dublin Corporation could do now: assist in having this project completed. That would be a fitting testimonial to next year “1991 – Dublin Cultural capital of Europeâ€.
….sorry should have left the web address in a convienient spot..visit
View architectural sketches and read global comments on Ronan and Barret’s latest proposal’s (through the good agency of their servant architect) for opposite Kilmainham Gaol and The Royal Hospital.
Any comments…. “Come on Bolton St. lead the way†…you were never known to a quiet retiring band of architects/conservatives in my student days.
Latest news from Kilmainham is that Sile De Velera is anxious after she shifts Mr Mc Gonagle as curator of IMMA (cue presently under way) that she intends moving the IMMA to “the more fashionable docklands” this is a prelude to the opening up of the ancient lands of the Royal Hospital for “renewal and development”- more LEGO to be built- now in the grounds of the Royal Hospital-we always suspected that these massive inner city grounds would have “progressive developers” wishing – “if only we could get in there” the way is being planned and without a doubt we shall read of some great plan of renewal to facilitate them in and over the wall from Kilmainham Gaol when the vacation of the IMMA is announced.
HOW DARE THE OLD GAOL CAST ITS SHADOW ACROSS KILMAINHAM AND THE MACRO BLOCKS !!!
Original Message
From: Tom R. Phillips
Subject: Kilmainham Gaol Dublin> Dear Mr Callery
>
> We act as Planning Consultants for the proposed development. I note
> from the Planning Files at Dublin Corporation and from the letters page
> of the Irish Voice your correspondence on this issue.
>
> I am concerned that some of the statements you make are at odds with the
> facts of the scheme. For example, the Gaol is located south of the
> scheme. Therefore the proposal has shadow cast upon it by the Gaol, not
> the other way around. Similarly, your correspondence does not take into
> account the current and long-standing industrial use of the site as a
> Chocolate Factory.
>
> We held two meetings with local residents in June at the Ashling Hotel
> to outline the scheme prior to lodgement to Dublin Corporation.
>
> We have also met with senior officials of Duchas – the Heritage Service
> who are vested with the care of Kilmainham Gaol.
>
> The scheme as submitted stems from detailed discussions with senior
> planners and architects at Dublin Corporation, and the developer is
> fully commited to the realisation of the planning gain elements.
>
> We will be holding another public meeting shortly for
> local residents to which we will extend you an invitation. We would
> welcome the opportunity to discuss the scheme with you.
>
> I would like to correct the record in terms of your correspondence with
> the Irish Voice so that any letters of representation stem from correct
> information.
>
> I look forward to meeting with you at the public meeting.
>
> With regards
>
> Tom R. Phillips
>
>You’re the crafty devil when you like
You set my mind at ease and then you strike
You set my head a reeling you make me shout and sing
You’re the foxy rouge and that’s for sure
For your company there is no cure
And so despite misfortune I’ll take you as you are
The best of a friend and enemy
The best I’ve known by far.WHISKEY
Happy Christmas to all- and don’t get knocked down by the LUAS !!!
Updated web site on Kilmainham Gaol:
Visit the new improved http://www.kilmainham-gaol.com
View model “of development of renewal†(Minimum population of these 3 Macro Blocks, will be 4000 transient office workers) – along with 500 parking spaces (where are the other thousand cars + to park ?). Also 2 sub floors planned into this ancient site (an enormous blackhole to be excavated here). OK if something positive was to emerge to enhance all that stands here, but for this (sub-urban LEGO) to loom over all and in particular the residents in the Victorian houses to the east and west is criminal in such an ancient and historical place – the actual elevated site where Brian Boru camped the evening before the Battle of Clontarf in 1014 and also the ancient place of St. John’s Well.
2 subfloors at least
6 rising “graduallyâ€
Another on top for AHUs and CWSTs – ( 9 floors in total)The magnificent views from this site opposite the Jail are so unique to Kilmainham and are deserving of an architectural competition for a landmark/gateway building into Kilmainham.
A building of utmost architectural excellence is demanded here.
North- the great expanse of the Pheonix Park and a near mirror image of the Jail itself the 18th century Arsenal / Magazine Fort on the northern horizon and on the same elevation as the Nestle site.
East- the ancient walls of Bully’s Acre and the only high rise feature we wish to see the Clock Tower of the Royal Hospital.
West- the Victorian residences of Inchicore Road, the “newest developments†around the Nestle site and constructed over a 100 years ago. Also the 100 year old trees standing like sentries along the length of the road.
South – the Court House (another building that should be providing amenities for us and tourists) instead of screaming villains being pulled daily in front of tourists and ourselves from the back of Garda cars. And on this elevation what has to remain the dominant building Kilmainham Jail itself.
After reading last sunday’s Irish Business Post in which a very pertinent letter from New York was published concerning “the eternal waste of the Nestle Site†if even one storey of offices is allowed to be built, we are even more determined to let our opinions be made clear to Treasury Holdings.
We know that John Ronan and Richard Barret are intelligent hardworking businessmen. We also think that they must be ignorant / unaware of how this community here views their proposals (speculative office blocks) for our historic place. This is not just any old green field site as they seem to think. They have planned and totally ignored us and all the great protected monuments that surround this site. They must pretend their blind and that we and Kilmaimham Jail are just an inconvenience that will eventually fade away!!! Their arrogance is astounding.
They obviously don’t appreciate or understand our sense of place and identity – and what they propose is like a red flag to a raging bull. It would be sacrilege to us if office blocks are built on this site in any shape or form. They appear to us as yet another invader hoping to pillage Kilmainham and are no different to the Vikings , Normans or English who only came to our place for gain, profit or worse retribution. We are a proud and historic people here in Inchicore and Kilmainham and we only wish for even half of what we see working so successfully around a whiskey museum in the IAP for Smithfield and it’s community.“This development stems from detailed discussions with the senior architects and planners of Dublin Corporation†so the developers agent
(Frank Benson) informs us in his EIS report. First great act of renewal in the Corpo’s IAP for Kilmainham is LEGO blocks and the ruination of this magnificent site.This development has being planned as if this site was off the M50 or in a field off the Nass Road – “client briefâ€- Anto, shoehorn in as much rental space as possible across the site down into the ground and up into the air and pretend that the residents, thousands of tourists, heritage, history and all the great architecture that surrounds this site DOES NOT EXIST !!!
Ian Ritchie’s magnificent Spire would be more than welcomed by all in Kilmainham to stand opposite the Old Gaol – to be surrounded by the work of Sir William Robinson’s ( Royal Hospital), Francis Johnston’s ( Richmond Tower ), Mc Cauley’s
( East Wing of the Gaol ) and Sir Edwin Lutyens Great War Memorial Park – somehow Anto Reddy’s speculative office blocks !! does not ring right or seem to fit in here with the aforementioned great historical stone icons.Well said JOF I agree not only on the Spike / Spire but also on the forgotten Irishmen (all volunteers ) of both wars. It’s sad to think that a city centre commerative monument would probably have meet the same faith as The Pillar. Come out to Kilmainham ,only 3 miles from the GPO ( I’m sure you have ) and view the magnificent Great War Memorial Park as designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and built (by public subscriptions) in the 1930s by members of the Irish army and ex servicemen of WW1- this memorial garden is renown as the finest memorial gardens on these islands. It commerates the 60,000 Irishmen from 32 counties (greatest loss of Irish lives since the famine of the 1840s) who fell in WW1, it truly is the only all Ireland memorial in the country.
It is only a minutes walk from the other great Irish architectural / historical icon Kilmainham Gaol – such a diversity of architecture and above all the great diversity (both sides) of our history in the same district and so close to each other- they both deserve the same respect and protection. It always amazes me when I meet architectural students and architects in general that so few have even heard of Lutyens great work or visited the memorial park in Kilmainham – obviously it’s still not on the required list of student site visits ??
Seamus, what’s proposed for to face Kilmainham Gaol and the other great stone icons of Kilmainham would not be allowed by any city authority in any other capital city in Europe – the Corpo keep saying “well it’s private property” let them start saying to Treasuty Holdings NO NO NO – and remind them that “property has its rewards and also its responsibilities” .
visit http://www.kilmainham-gaol.com if you wish to help.
Exactly as you say Conor – the government (or rather courts) seem to have broken the monopoly and power of the TAXI lobby. How the TAXI men ever had a lobby is hard to credit as most TAXI men are ordinary Joe’s like the rest of us. The publicans (much more powerful) will I predict always be a law onto themselves to the ultimate detriment / destruction of the last of the genuine old Dublin pubs. It will take the courts (government have no will or desire) to save the remaining authentic Dublin boozers by breaking the publicans monopoly and total self interest which is destroying the last inner ring of authentic city pubs.
They are already eyeing up old pubs (only as a licence to knock and plan amphitheatres) in the Liberties, Pimblico and surrounding streets i.e. The once majestic little bar of Rodgers of Thomas St gone and its licence now operates Vicar St (a fine and another welcome contemporary venue in Dublin 8) but alas Rodgers had to go solely for its licence (not its site) as Vicar St is built on the opposite corner. The Robert Emmet (adjacent to Catherine’s Church where Emmet was hung now revamped, Berlin-ised / destroyed and called Handel’s – how Dublin Indeed !! what next ?? plenty more phoneys and fakes on the way as the Celtic Cubs over spill out of Temple Bar and up to rejuvenate the great “e district†that is planned for the back of “The Pipesâ€/ Guinness’s. The publican vultures must be licking their lips and are already planning to play their part in the “rejuvenation†(exploitation) of the Liberties.
The current façade whereby the publican builds a fake Irish pub within / adjacent to his main pub is the greatest joke yet i.e. beside the lounge of the Mercantile in Dame St one sees I think it’s called O’Reillys or Maloneys – now he has two pubs for one licence, pity the tourists or anybody else who falls for this total con.
Time is fast ticking away for the last of the old Dublin pubs within the inner ring (between the two canals) – unless the pub licence monopoly is broken – little hope, the publicans will always will have the ear and tail of the government and the indifference of the young drinker who is happy to pile in, pose and be facilitated in a “cool operating theatre†with a drink by big business. But the young boozer / resident of the hip inner city of today will seek the genuine article tomorrow and it will for certain be no more. Future Dubs will have to visit the Crown in Belfast (owned and run by the British National Trust) i.e. a Belfast icon and protected heritage building to have an inclination of how it once was in some Dublin pubs.
Exactly as you say Conor – the government (or rather courts) seem to have broken the monopoly and power of the TAXI lobby. How the TAXI men ever had a lobby is hard to credit as most TAXI men are ordinary Joe’s like the rest of us. The publicans (much more powerful) will I predict always be a law onto themselves to the ultimate detriment / destruction of the last of the genuine old Dublin pubs. It will take the courts (government have no will or desire) to save the remaining authentic Dublin boozers by breaking the publicans monopoly and total self interest which is destroying the last inner ring of authentic city pubs.
They are already eyeing up old pubs in the Liberties, Pimblico and surrounding streets i.e. The once majestic little bar of Rodgers of Thomas St gone and its licence now operates Vicar St (a fine and another welcome contemporary venue in Dublin 8) but alas Rodgers had to go solely for its licence (not its site) as Vicar St is built on the opposite corner. The Robert Emmet (adjacent to Catherine’s Church where Emmet was hung now revamped, Berlin-ised / destroyed and called Handel’s – how Dublin Indeed !! what next ?? plenty more phoneys and fakes on the way as the Celtic Cubs over spill out of Temple Bar and up to rejuvenate the great “e district†that is planned for the back of “The Pipesâ€/ Guinness’s. The publican vultures must be licking their lips and are already planning to play their part in the rejuvenation of the Liberties.
The current façade whereby the publican builds a fake Irish pub within / adjacent to his main pub is the greatest joke yet i.e. beside the lounge of the Mercantile in Dame St one sees I think it’s called O’Reillys or Maloneys – now he has two pubs for one licence, pity the tourists or anybody else who falls for this total con.
Time is fast ticking away for the last of the old Dublin pubs within the inner ring (between the two canals)- unless the pub licence monopoly is broken – little hope, the publicans will always will have the ear and tail of the government and the indifference of the young drinker who is happy to pile in pose and be facilitated in a “cool operating theatre†with a drink by big business. But the young boozer / resident of the hip inner city of today will seek the genuine article tomorrow and it will for certain be no more.
ADDITIONS REVISIONS AND ALTERATIONS ON THE PUBS OF DUBLIN 8.
Sadly since I compiled my “report†in July the following boozers have been levelled
Gaffney’s of Weavers Sq. as LOB rightly informed us. May Murray’s in Kilmainham- levelled to make way for yet another nondescript block of flats, sorry apartments. As I previously stated don’t fail to visit the “wee room†at the back of The Royal Oak right opposite Kilmainham Garda station – also ignore the fancy crazy 70s granite finish of the walls on the outside thank God it did not invade the interior – this is a most unique little shop. Visitors / Architects please note, just across the road / lane from the Oak you will see an unusual private dwelling well under construction along the boundary wall of The Royal Hospital featuring a round tower effect- a most unique and very welcome contemporary construction opposite a most unique little drinking shop.A dramatic painting of the southern elevation of Kilmainham Gaol is to be seen over the bar – before Shell and Finn Reddy built their garage. Finn Reddy actually uses the back wall of the Gaol as a boundary for his parking lot – how in the world was he granted permission ?? It’s crazy and wrong but not as bad or as speculative as what Treasury Holdings and Tony Reddy plan for to face the great stone icons / monuments of the Gaol, The Court House and The Royal Hospital !!!!
Visit http://www.kilmainham-gaol.com this site also at planning stage. So the first great act of “renewal†in Dublin Corporation’s IAP for Kilmainham is to be “lash them up†office blocks in our face and the face of the Gaol.
Alas the Black and Amber also closed – Charlton must have come back !! Should be depressing to see what theme / team bar now emerges from this once great old shop.
How could I leave out of 8 the great Lord Edward (High St) – just go and visit and view the old gas lighting piping (mech services) still intact over the bar. And yes how could Walshe’s be left out of 7. Also Guinness’s “gravity bar†finished and by all accounts a great addition to Dublin 8, £9 in for a pint – a little steep methinks. Best head of for a pint – I’ll visit the Royal Oak and see how the round house is coming along and listen for news on any more great plans the Corpo may have for the district.
SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND AND BE BLESSED.
Ref : The Pubs of Dublin 8.
I write to inform you of the greatest district in Dublin for “real pubs” and where for the most one can enjoy a quiet pint with the exception of the odd T.V.
Without doubt I recommend a visit to the front snug of O’Donoughue’s On Emmet Road Inchicore otherwise known as the Glen / The Hill / Jack’s and if the TV is on just ask Brian, Liam or Darren to turn it off they normally oblige. The back bar is still essentially a male preserve but the odd female is tolerated as long as she is appreciative of the very rural atmosphere of this the finest shop in Inchicore / Dublin 8. After a few pints here you’l already be looking forward to your return. Incidently this was a favourite pub of Brian Lenihan where he often dropped in to enjoy a quiet pint in privacy like any other local.
I must say that the last of the old Dublin boozers are still to be found in Inchicore i.e. The unique men ( men of iron / railwaymen ) only bar of the Black Lion . Also the most unique old bar / old coaching house of The Richmond House / Mc Dowell’s – the old bar area and the front snug (where the more mature female customers still enjoy their glass) are from a bygone age. Also The Great Southern & Western Railway Inn / Cleary’s on Sarsfield Road is a great old railway shop.
In Kilmainham ( the very rural Royal Oak on Kilmainham Lane, May Murray’s on Bow Bridge ) a must is the little “railway carriage“ room at the back and if you want to try a really eccentric but real old Dublin shop head for The Black and Amber / Dillon’s on Islandbridge and observe the unique Jem Dillon in action. Sit up on the nearest available bar stool (always plenty at the bar ) and enjoy a great pint of Guinness in the company of no more than 10 locals (in this architectural throwback to the 60s) when it’s bedlam in trendy Ryan’s further down in Parkgate Street. Ryan’s is a great afternoon shop but come the evening one is sure of a worn plastic covered stool and Jem’s or Mrs Dillon’s undivided attention in the unique sanctuary of the Black and Amber. Jack Charlton made Jem an offer he did refuse for the premises as he’s happy looking after his unique small band of locals in his mile long shop. Here again women are encouraged to sit “beyond the bar”.
All the pubs along James / Thomas St. are brewery pubs and each one pocesses it’s own uniqueness and ambience (the good the bad and the ugly) and are special in that the Guinness travels only a few yards from Arthur’s (James’s Gate) to the taps. A few I’d recommend would be The Barn Owl, The Malt House and Hanlon’s on James’s St.
After some experience on the streets venture into the area known as “The Pipes” ( the back of the brewery) have one in The Brewery Bar on Pim St The Old Harbour and Ryan’s near the old Guinness barge dock ( now filled in ) , after much experience venture into O’Reillys –
( bring a flashlamp as it’s always pretty dark!! ) – on James’s St the nearest pub to the world famous entrance to Guinnesse’s i.e. James’s Gate and run by a great Cavan man from Kilashandra (my mother’s hometown ) Tommy O’Reilly.On Thomas St. worth a visit are The Clock and Baker’s – great atmosphere when the dealers are out in force on saturday afternoons. Incidently Guinness’s are presently constructing a huge visitors centre at the back of “The Pipes” which will contain a mega panorama bar on top of the old Victorian brewery building – I’ll probably go once – once it’s finished. You’ll be spoiled for choice in the Liberties especially along Francis St (Liberty Belle and The Dean Swift), Meath St (Ryan’s and Bohan’s). On the Coombe what is still a great old Dublin shop but alas now filled with tourists sipping an eternal glass of Guinness and filling in their eternal postcards- the one and only Fallon’s. Near to Fallon’s on Mill Lane you’l find a well run pub called The Tenters around the corner in Newmarket Sq. you’l find a bar where all the world resides The Red Lion. Just a minute or two and up into Cork St and back to reality in the now threathened (by road widening) Gaffney’s Weaver’s Sq., The Ardee House / Jones’s (great taximen ballad session here on a monday ) on Chamber St. and Lowe’s at Dolphin’s Barn .
Also on Cork St check out Morrissy’s and a great name for the Coombe The Stork, shops that are a little rough around the edges, in need of a lick of paint and full of “characters” (long may they stay as they are), another few years and proposed road “improvements” will also see them disappear to be remembered “as the rare old times”.
We’re blessed and very fortunate in Dublin 8 that we must have the highest density of pubs / Sq. yd. in the world and all within walking distance of home and all the famous sites of Old Dublin. There are more to be found along the lenght of the S.C.R., (Plimblico, Rialto, Portebello !!!) and around Blackpitts but I reckon if you survey the above over the coming months you’l be doing well… by the way Lamberts near Kelly’s Corner is a special place for a quiet jar. Another great old bar is to be found on the Long Mile Road and known locally by the young wags as an old folks home the great Half Way House.
Then maybe for a break from Dublin 8 I could direct you to “The Liberties” of the northside which pocesses many a fine pub and is still a great secret i.e. Stoneybatter and in particular the bars of Hanlon’s, Mulligans and Kavanagh’s ( the bar here should be listed by Dublin Corporation)..but alas I only heard last night that renovations might be under way.. so hurry!! When over this unique part of the city ramble down to Queen St. to view and savour a pub of many nooks and crannies and my favourite on the north side Frank Ryan’s where the clientele vary from dealers to big wigs from the Four Courts.
Certainly we’re spoiled for choice in Dublin 8 unlike the suburbs where the publican has a captive audience, increasing in numbers all the time and the local pub getting bigger and bigger . So the best of luck in your forays from deepest where ever into the inner city. I’m confident that you’l enjoy the pubs the people and the adventure of the new. Slainte and to your health,
JOHN CALLERY.
