Re: Re: Restoring sash windows

@GrahamH wrote:

Thanks for that S.O.S – I’ll keep that quote in mind, unless Pot Noodle can beat it ;). Sounds about right!

The only way someone can beat my price or quality is to do crap work.

@GrahamH wrote:

When you say you use Pilkington glass if asked for double-glazing, do you mean you use single-glazed Pilkington as an alternative, or double-glazed Pilkington? What do you do when a client insists on double-glazing with a Georgian sash? Do you take a deep breath and go with 30mm bars or stick to your morals?.

If someone wants low-e glass they must use a double glazed unit. I aim for a 14mm unit to keep the sashes as thin as possible but if I have the room I go with a 18mm gas filled double glazed unit (can’t fit the nozzel into a 14mm unit).

If one of my customers insists on double glazing in a Georgian sash well its not possible unless you have a 30mm glazing bar even then there are no guarantees. I just say its not possible unless they go for 1/1 and stick those god awfulplastic bars onto them (which I won’t do)

@GrahamH wrote:

Also, what sort of thickness of d/g unit is best, and is it possible to putty in double-glazed units? It would appear that using clunky beading instead of putty is now the only barrier to an acceptable use of thin d/g units in sash windows (Victorian anyway, whatever of Georgian). The use of specially treated high performance single-glazing which acts the same as double-glazing (and as featured on Grand Designs last week) doesn’t seem to have caught on here. It’s been available for years! Have you ever made use of this? (apologies for the twenty questions).

First you can put linseed putty on a double glaxed unit if you protect the rubber compound from the linseed with silicone or similar (the name of the one I use which I won’t post).

I’m very interested in the name of that high preformance glass not k-glass is it.

@GrahamH wrote:

It’s extraordinary the difference draught-proofing makes to sashes alright. Reducing the air changes in a room dramatically affects levels of heat retention. Indeed only recently I was in a modern house where the back door had a terrible draughty gap around the edges, and the room was about 50% colder than the rest of the house, in spite of having the same relative coverage of central heating.

The best way I found to draught proof a door is to route a groove around the door and install the same draught proofing I use for my sash windows.

Makes the door more difficult to open and close but by god it is very effective.

S.O.S. (Save Our Sashes)