Bren88
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how are you thinking to do the construction of the outer leaf of the external wall, or are youy thinking about a thicker single leaf?
If all other roads fail, would it be possible to survey the house yourself.
I am unfamilar with the house, what state is it in, is it well kept? Is there interior access.
Have the requirements for the projects changed over the last few years?Question was pretty much covered by Spanky.
As long as the rigid board is dense enough it will hold. Because the screed has less support its thickness is increased. It’s fairly standard practice.Insulation like that should be around 50mm thick, but depending on various factors such as Thermal resistance wantd/required, and the quaility of the insulation used, the thickness can vary a bit.
As for the screed, like the one shown (floating screed) should be around 65-75mm thick.As for the cost, It can vary alot depending quaility of materials, workmanship. I wouldn’t even hazard a guess to be honest. What sort of job is it?
The Homebond book would be a good buy to help you.The green represents insulation. A rigid board type. And the red line above that appears to be a screed (floor finish similar to concrete). Its a little hard to make out why there is a space under the insulation.
i’d really like to hear why also, the name on its own looks a little weak without any reason behind it.
The prices I quoted above are the prices from a company after the grants were anounced. Up and runing the system is slightly larger than a gas boiler because of the hopper attached, but it is still smaller than a oil boiler and tank. I’d doubt the prices have increased because they profit remains the same and if some companys did all the other companys would have to exploit that.
If you can pick up CAD quickly, or if your school does it as part of the sylabus then try it out,
but if it would take up of time it might be better to stick to tee square and pencil.
If you are doing a structural model, it is very worth will taking into account the construction method of the building you select. Concrete buildings models can look a bit plain. Because to get a good level of detail on the construction you have to use a scale of at least 1:20 or 1:50. And that might mean taking a only section of a buildong to keep the overall within the coffee table size limits. Timber buildings on the other hand, are generally smaller so you should be able to get the whole building done, thay have smaller members and also alot more of them. There are ways around every building type to make them work, its up to you.Just out of curiosity how do you propose to get your model to comply with the brief. When I was at school (never did construction though) you had to use skills from 3 ( or maybe 4) different trades. Is that still the case.
It would be very hard to rank all the different practices. I might rank one office highly because I like a paticular development, where as another person might not like them for his own reasons.
There are so many different ways to rank them also- Past Jobs
- Up coming developments
- Development Size (large scale verses smaller)
- Number of employees
- No. of years established
- Specialisation
Just out of curisoty what scale and materials are you thinking of?
Are you going to do a model showing only finishes, or a model that shows the construction of the building?@Dreamboat800 wrote:
Is there ever a situation where a certain land area is privately owned and planning permission is not required?
Are you asking is there a situation were planning permission ins’t allowed at all for ANY development. Then the answer is no.
There is exempt development but certain building work will require planing permission no matter what the status of the land.I doubt it would be a possible solutuion, the electricity used in the process would probably be a better source of energy than the gases gained, It would work on a small scale, such as somebody needs a small amount of hydrogen or oxygen for a hobby, would be cheaper to create it than to buy it but I don’t see it working on a larger scale.
Just my view, I could be way off the mark.@Cute Panda wrote:
Nuclear power generation is a natural process. This is how the sun works and the earth’s magnetic field is created at the earth’s core.
You could regard nuclear power generation as natural. As you pointed out the sun uses nuclear power to generate light and heat, but the sun uses nuclear fusion. Which has a much better potential, but unfortunatly we cannot use that process down here.
And as for your point about the earth magnetic field, that has nothing to do with nuclear power. The field is there, it isn’t created by a reaction of any sort.My only concern about nuclear power is that it is limited. Current methods and sources cannout last. It will last longer than the oil that is left, maybe. But what then??
A 16kW boiler would heat a house of 2,000 sq.ft. You are slightly over that so it shouldn’t be a big problem, you can always get a more accurate opinion when the time comes.
Well compared to oil, wood pellets would last thre times as long for the same cost.
It costs €4,360, take into account the fact that there is a €4,200 grant available it seams like a good idea. There will be a few extra costs on that, such as installation.@purple1703 wrote:
How long would a tonne last??
Do you find it cheaper?
Does it produce same amount of heat as oil?I haven’t used one personally but i’ll try give you a little bit of help.
The time a tonne would last would depend on a number of factors, the size of a home, the boiler used, the heating pattern of the home and how well built the home is. A tonne costs less than €160, what heating system do you have at home now, how long would €160 last with that system, a tonne of pellets woud last longer to say the least.
The figures* from SEI for wood pellets are 3.61 cent/kWh, for gas 5.10 cent/kWh and kerosene 10.58 cent/kWh. That would show that it is cheaper to run, in the long term woodpellet prices are most likely to be more stable.
The amount of heat produced is dependant on the size of the boiler. You can’t compare 16kW pellet boiler to a 20kW oil boiler, the oil produces more heat, but a 24kW pellet boiler produces more again.
I doubt the format has changed much this year as it has been the same for some time.
There are two sections, the first is a pattern related test, start of easy and get increasingly difficult. 9 boxes in a 3 x 3 grid with one blank and you have to select the missing one from a list, trying doing a few on-line IQ tests that involve shape and pattern questins to get into the mind set.
The next section will be an essay, generally on yourself, interests and so on. When i did it a few years ago I drew a complete blank in the essay and wasted a bit of time. So it might be worth it to do a practice run the night before.
I don’t know if the test are over yet, but i doubt it as they normally run for the full week.
Raft foundations are slightly harder than “start mixing and do it yourself”. In the right situation they are ideal. Ans as for using the raft as a finished floor, you can no problem. But a better finish can is advisable for certain floor finishes, should you wish to change in the future, so a small screed wouldn’t hurt. Or you can power-float it.
When I said build to the centre of the fince, i also meant the soffit, because that is included too. so you’ll have to take that into account and build around 300 back from the fence. That way there are no ground for objection, How far back are you planning on going from the fence.
@Bren88 wrote:
Using rafters without full fill insulation can be the easiest way to achieve ventilation and use spaced boarding instead of conventional ply under the finish.
There insulation between the rafters isn’t fuly filling the space. A c.50mm gap is left and this gives the ventilation cavity. If you want to fully fill the space for achieve a better U-value then batten are needed.
But as I said, the non-full fill detail is easier.@emailtojohn wrote:
My gut feeling is to try to solve it with your neighbour. Would he be interested in extending also? and if so you could both agree to build on the boundary wall, reducing building cost and creating more floor space.
If it is the gable side of the house then the neighbours house is a distance back and if he extends it probably won’t have an affect on DanielO’Ds.
Anyway, it would be wise to check the boundary, as i doubt that the boundary is directly on your gable wall, as then the soffit would protrude onto his land. But the fact that existing fence is two inches wide makes no difference, You can build to the centre of that fence (if it is in the correct position).
If the boundary is your gable wall, then why can’t you extend directly out in a straight line, as it doesn’t pass onto his land.
And what your friend said about “your boundary” and his on the other side, is wrong, the boundary is between both your gardens.It might be easier to give advice if we get a picture.
