O’ Connell Street, Dublin
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urbanisto.
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- June 9, 2011 at 1:42 am #731547
GrahamH
ParticipantThat’s good news Stephen – hopefully we’ll see some action for once. Ironically, they shot themselves in the foot on this one, as it was only the change in signage that triggered enforcement proceedings.
Good news also on the Irish Nationwide signage. It says a lot about the implementation of the ACA and Special Planning Control Scheme that the only designated signage to come down on O’Connell Street in nearly a decade has occurred through the horrendous death of a window cleaner in 2005, who pulled down the Chas F. Ryan signage over Ann Summers in an attempt to save himself, and in the case of Irish Nationwide – well, the implosion of the world’s financial system and the decimation of the Irish economy. One dreads to think what is needed to remove the other advertising on Eden Quay – World War III? With any luck Helga II will sort things out for us.
The removal of the lettering (if not yet their substructure, which probably requires planning permission) makes a considerable difference.
2007

2011


The fine late Edwardian facade decluttered.

Unfortunately, that nasty floodlighting, which only went in a few years ago as part of the equally crude repainting job seen below, was not removed.

(2007)This site was of course occupied by a fine red brick building that comprised part of the Wide Streets Commissioners’ 1780s set-piece composition framing the entrance to Sackville Street.

The corner building, as with that that still survives on the opposite side of the street, was a relatively narrow building in appearance (though the same width as the other plots on Sackville Street) that hosted a feature tripartite window at first floor level – its principal elevation facing onto Eden Quay.
The famous jewellers Hopkins & Hopkins occupied the ground floor shop unit both before and after the 1916 Rising reduced the building to rubble. Famously, they were the makers of the original Sam Maguire cup (now replaced with a replica for match use).

Their fine new premises, built from a hefty insurance claim, was erected to the designs of the architectural practice O’Callaghan & Webb, who made considerable hay out of the rebuilding of the area post-1916.
The building is one of the firm’s more successful designs – robust, decorous yet streamlined, and above all elegant in massing and detail. The masonry is a little gauche in places, but for the most part ingenuity is displayed with deep voids, confident channelling and a well proportioned hierarchy of storey treatment. The building composes itself much more successfully from a distance, as intended to be viewed from O’Connell Bridge.

Unfortunately, the building’s sophistication is considerably diluted and its architectural expression cheapened by the painting of its double-height timber window bays in white. These are not simply an accent or a detail of the building – they are a central element of its facades’ composition. To decorate the frames with the frivolous notions of the 1980s, rather than carefully selected finishes that give full acknowledgment of their equal importance to the cut stone that surrounds them, is to change the building into something it was never intended to be. The bays are supposed to read as heavy, punchy, robust voids in the facades – not as trashy, garish white effects that clash rather than harmonise with the overall composition.
Here is an original photograph of the building from shortly after its completion in 1922. What a pleasing and thoroughly elegant composition it makes on the corner.

The deep, dark voids are reminiscent of the luxurious bronze bays of Selfridges and the many banks and insurance offices of early 1900s Britain.
June 9, 2011 at 2:01 am #731548GrahamH
ParticipantHere we see the building rising from the ashes in 1920 – the first floor is beginning to take shape.

Reaching completion here around early 1922.

We can get some vague sense of what the building would be like returned to its original paint scheme with some crude image trickery.
Today

Restored

And the colour version for what it’s worth.

(Note what Ulster Bank’s high class aspirations next door have turned into within the space of months – unbelievable stuff).
The finest attribute of No. 1 O’Connell Street must surely be its beautiful original shop front, which survives almost entirely intact today. It is astounding the degree to which the early 1900s is overlooked in terms of shop front design – the principles of which are not only applicable to the modern store, they also set the standards that international chains unconsciously aspire to the world over. These chaps had the art fine-tuned when rebuilding the north inner city in the 1910s and 1920s, yet we gloss over them in favour of either poor reproductions of Victorian shop fronts or late 20th century models. We would do well to take a leaf out of the 1916 generation’s book.
The exquisitely proportioned, polished silver granite shop front of Hopkins & Hopkins.

Expansive display windows address Eden Quay, while a beautiful curved entrance bay appropriately addresses O’Connell Street. The chamfered corner bay was cleverly deployed for use as a captivating window display, catching the eye of thousands of pedestrians crossing O’Connell Bridge. The displays elegantly responded to the horizontal glazing bars of the windows, keeping the top lights free of clutter. Like the character of the whole building, the shop front exuded all the charms of a miniature trinket box quietly sitting at the entrance to O’Connell Street.
The shop front today, with a nasty 1980s signage panel erected over the original granite fascia where reticent pin-mounted lettering was once located. The entrance bay with curved glass has also been crudely altered. Why hold on to picturesque notions when one can have a utilitarian security lobby?


Handsome bronze capitals adorn the tops of the pilasters, while a further band of bronze dresses the top of the fascia panel.
A more subtle intervention was the replacement of decorative grilles underneath the windows with matching granite infill panels.

One of the more recognisable attributes of this building to regular passers-by are the beautiful bronze plinths to the shop front pilasters. One or two have been lazily replaced in brass.

The timber window frames also feature fine bronze dressings to their bases.
An ingenious original design feature of the shop front is the incorporation of remarkably slimline shutters in the windows, the running track of which can be seen in the images above and below. It is so discreet that one would have to challenge even the most highly factory-engineered window manufacturers to incorporate such a feature today.
June 9, 2011 at 2:06 am #731549GrahamH
ParticipantThe shutters roll down from behind the original fascia, where one can see the original awnings also neatly incorporated! A remarkable feat of design.

The shutters in operation in November 1923.

Of course we’d want open-mesh located inside the shop today ; )
The metal fixings for all of the awnings still survive.


Quirky carved detail to the windows also.
Personally, I’m in a permanent state of two minds on awnings. Yes they’re classy, yes they’re picturesque, but architectural they are not. On a large building with a plain shop front they can work extremely well, but on a small scale where clutter can be easily generated on a street, little beats a dash of confident shop front design, as seen at No. 1. Why interfere with such a carefully contrived composition – it’s akin to tossing a throw over a good sofa to ‘protect’ it: neither having the confidence nor the will to use and keep on show what is good and of quality.
Irish Nationwide have now moved out. Another fine feature of the shop unit is its original Adamesque ceiling which survives perfectly intact, and finally on fully show now the stud partitions have mostly come down.


One of the many Edwardian style ceilings installed in O’Connell Street shops in the reconstructions, that while somewhat clunky in their use of hybrid motifs, display a charming Georgian revival style executed by the dying breed of plaster craftsmen of early 20th century Dublin.


Some plaster medallions and garlands to the walls also, which no doubt were strategically positioned above glazed display cabinets. Much of the plasterwork in the shop is in need of careful stripping of multiple layers of paint.

The clock frozen in time.
June 9, 2011 at 2:11 am #731550GrahamH
ParticipantThere is fabulous potential here for a gallery, fashion boutique or bistro-style café overlooking the Liffey through the picture windows.

The entire building is now on sale with offers expected around the €2 million mark – a fraction of what would have been earned for such a high profile building during the boom years. Here’s hoping the new owner and Dublin City Council recognise the building’s qualities in its refurbishment and future use.
June 9, 2011 at 4:47 am #731551Morlan
ParticipantThanks Graham.
June 9, 2011 at 9:36 am #731552gunter
ParticipantI think it’s time that Dublin City do the decent thing and employ Graham to sort out the city.
June 9, 2011 at 10:07 am #731553urbanisto
ParticipantYes a lovely building. Displays some of the best qualities of the rebuilt O’Connell Street. Lets hope it doesn’t stay vacant for too long and, as you say, its new owners realise its undoubted potential.
June 9, 2011 at 1:08 pm #731554gunter
Participanttwo other images of the Eden Quay corner;

from the early 1940s with a no. 3 tram in the foreground

and from the late ’60s or early 70sIn both views, the building retains its original dark painted window frames, as pointed out by Graham, and sports a scripted ‘Player’s Please’ sign at parapet level.
I know I’ll be shot for this, but I quite like well crafted signage at sky line level like this. The dodgy Jacobs Cream Cracker sign next door on the other hand had to go.
June 9, 2011 at 2:18 pm #731555urbanisto
ParticipantReady…
Aim….FIRE!
June 9, 2011 at 2:27 pm #731556Anonymous
Inactive@gunter wrote:
I think it’s time that Dublin City do the decent thing and employ Graham to sort out the city.
Graham Hickey, Dublin’s first directly elected Mayor perchance? :clap:
Something quite appealing about the Players Please sign alright gunter, i’ve always liked it, not that you’d dream of errecting anthing of its ilk today of course *cough*
June 10, 2011 at 4:10 am #731557Paul Clerkin
KeymasterDidn’t it look sharp with the dark painted windows – very sophisticated.
For Gunter
June 16, 2011 at 12:42 am #731558GrahamH
ParticipantHa – I knew this would pop up! Of course the unacknowledged fact with most illuminated or neon signage (the above distingushed example excluded) is that it looked totally rubbish during the day, with their grid frame support structures and cabling mauling facades. The smoky romanticisim only emerged after dark!
Number 1 O’Connell Street was a vertiable billboard back then in gunter’s second picture – no less than five advertising signs stuck all over it.
The removed Irish Nationwide signage was quite old – erected in 1968. It had been refurbished three times since erection (a 1978 photogtaph I have shows the lettering in a more distinguished orange colour).
Short Irish Independent piece on it here.
June 16, 2011 at 12:14 pm #731559Paul Clerkin
KeymasterGod I remember the orange, was it the same lettering?
June 16, 2011 at 12:38 pm #731560gunter
ParticipantGreat b+w picture of the neon signs reflected in the still waters of the Liffey, very thrench coat and atmospheric.
Have we any decent shots of O’Connell St. with the random roof-top search lights from a couple of years ago. I really liked that.
I know it was light pollution and energy wastage and all of that, but it added another dimension and it was harmless fun.
December 22, 2011 at 7:26 pm #731561Paul Clerkin
Keymaster[attachment=0:3krobseq]395511_2845622230206_1548910670_32746578_640432544_n.jpg[/attachment:3krobseq]
O’Connell Bridge losing its humpDecember 25, 2011 at 9:19 pm #731562apelles
ParticipantThere must be a larger uncropped version of this one, somewhere out there in cyberspace.
January 9, 2012 at 1:05 pm #731563Paul Clerkin
KeymasterFrom Saturday’s Irish Times
Controversy over plans to redevelop Henry St corner
AN BORD Pleanála is due to decide soon on controversial plans to replace five individual shop buildings on the corner of Henry Street and O’Connell Street, in Dublin city centre, with a single retail unit suitable for a chain store.
One of the principal arguments made by appellants against Dublin City Council’s decision to grant permission for the scheme is that it would result in the demolition or significant alteration of buildings that were present during the 1916 Rising.
The plan, submitted by Percy Nominees – a pension fund run by Allied Irish Investment Managers – would involve demolishing numbers 32 and 33 Henry Street and the partial demolition of 31 Henry Street, as well as 68 and 69 O’Connell Street Upper.
Two of the Henry Street buildings, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, would be replaced by a three-storey retail unit described by objectors as “bland” and “monolithic” while the O’Connell Street buildings would be stripped of their painted render.
“This proposal will entail squeezing out five smaller retailers which are currently trading and employing between 20 and 30 people directly, and also others in security, cleaning and local supplies,” said Colm Sorensen, managing director of Butlers Chocolates, one of the shops affected.
“The thought of demolishing 18th and 19th-century buildings that survived and witnessed the 1916 Rising simply because they have been slightly altered over the years is preposterous and completely misses the point of the preservation of heritage sites.
“It is accepted that it is the job of pension funds to maximise the value of their assets and it is the job of architects to serve their clients. It is hoped that it is the job of planners to recognise this and to protect this most historic architectural conservation area,” he said.
An Taisce, which has also appealed against the council’s decision, noted that the site is “one of the most prominent locations in the city centre, next door to the GPO and the Spire”, as well as being part of the O’Connell Street Architectural Conservation Area (ACA).
“By removing two reusable historic buildings of character and merit in order to create a large retail unit, the proposal would weaken and undermine the special architectural character of the area which the ACA sets out to protect,” according to Kevin Duff of An Taisce.
Manahan Planners, acting for Korkys and the Body Shop – located in GPO Buildings on Henry Street – said the scheme would “destroy the existing ‘local sense of place’ built up by largely local traders over many decades in favour of an ‘anywhere’ retail proposal”.
Planning consultants John Spain Associates argued on behalf of the applicants that Dublin City Council’s policy to withstand competition from out-of-town shopping centres is to facilitate the creation of larger units in the city centre for “higher-order retailing”.
Their submission included a report by real estate consultants Colliers International, supporting the development. But David Fitzsimons, chief executive of Retail Excellence Ireland, said this report “promotes a retail planning template which has in fact failed in the UK”.
Mr Sorensen noted that the recent review of the state of UK high streets, compiled for the British government by retail expert Mary Portas, referred to “Clone Town Britain” where every street looked the same and the “unique DNA of our towns” was being lost.
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2012/0106/1224309891644.html
April 18, 2013 at 10:20 pm #731565urbanisto
ParticipantO’Connell Street has fared better than expected through the recession given it recent history. Apart from the obvious Chartered Land site, vacancy is low on the street and standards have remained relatively high. It’s worth noting a few changes on the street recently and some planning permissions.
The terrace of four Georgian houses on Bachelors Walk for an iconic view onto the street but you would never think of it given their poor condition and hotchpotch of gaudy colours.
Permission has just been granted by Dublin City Council for a restoration of the original granite shopfront to No 32 (which was last known as Candy) and it will be very interesting to see such an ambitious proposal executed. I wonder at it…to be honest it seems worthy but wrong and I am not sure it will make for the attractive modern shop or restaurant that this site needs.
Next door, permission was sought to restore the upper floors of 33-34 Bachelors Walk wrapping around to 56 Lower O’Connell Street. This proposal includes the very welcome removal of all the shit signage, girders and utilities etc that has accumulated on this front for much of the past 100 years. A cafe at ground floor (already in place) and continued use in upper floors. Trouble is they want to then stick a 10x5m corner LED advertisement onto the front to replace the Nokia sign etc.
A split decision has been given by the PA with permission for the restoration works but refusal for the new advertising. It’s quite bizarre that they even thought it would be acceptable. It looked awful! What are people thinking in this city.
So with no advertisement revenue to be had I imagine the applicant will shy away from
refurbishing the upper floors. The trouble is that there is enforcement action against the Nokia signs and they are likely to have to do something.Opposite 56 is the former Irish Nationwide head office which has been vacant for a couple of years. There is now a (quite smart) currency exchange shop in place. Can I just ask…who uses these anymore?
Supermacs is still an disaster begging for an interested planning enforcement officer. They just can’t stop adding. The Westmoreland Street one is even worse and now Supermacs have opened in Temple Bar.
[/URL]Next we come to Chartered Land site. Getting grubbier by the day (as I mentioned elsewhere re Moore Street). Littered with site notices, nobody is cleaning windows…all the upper floors are empty. Today a new Chinese restaurant was installing brash signage to the front of the former Fingal offices…10 Thousands Restaurant. I rushed for the laptop thinking this must be unauthorised. But no, it got permission earlier this year. A temporary 3-year permission. I suppose little else is going to happen to this site for a while yet.
April 19, 2013 at 8:34 am #731566Peter Fitz
Participant“10 Thousand Restaurant” given 3 years permission, bringing us nicely up to 2016.
Just the thing to mark the centenary.
I believe Collins was partial to the odd ‘B Special’.
April 19, 2013 at 11:49 am #731567GrahamH
Participant:clap:
Yes I saw this plan go through a while back. I suppose a restaurant is a restaurant – the ASPC doesn’t specifiy all-you-can-eat buffet carts… But signage is specified, and that signage is shocking. How is this stuff still getting through?! The sad thing is that in spite of the rampant proliferation of Chinese eateries in the city, and all the new focus by business groups and enterpise sections in DCC wooing the Chinese business community, bizarrely there’s barely a decent Chinese restaurant amongst them. Where on earth would you even bring a Chinese person for an authentic meal in a decent environment in Dublin? You find better family-run Chinese restaurants in the average provincial town than in Dublin.
The two major planning cases for Bachelors Walk are show-stopping, flagship proposals that have the potential to change the very image of Dublin city centre on an international level. How there was no public comment on these as they were going through utterly defies me. The lethargy in Dublin at the minute is of some concern. Still, even though there should be a masterplan for this strategically important terrace, there were glimmers of joined-up thinking here with the planner referencing the simultaneous applications and the need to reference each other.
The clanger in the works for the Nokia signage application was the revelation that this sign, including in its original Baileys form, has had no planning permission since 2000, when its temporary permission expired from a grant in 1997. Yet the planning authority, with every planning tool conceivable in its armoury, did absolutely nothing to rid this terrace of the unauthorised junk tacked about protected facades of one of the most prominent locations in the country – and this in spite of their own multiple planning objectives to do so. So not only have we had to put up with this eyesore, the owner has creamed off what can only amount to at least a million euro on the back of the city, and is now claiming that new signage is required to make restoration of the buildings viable! What a farce. The money he’s earned could have paid for twenty full-time planners to clean up the entire city centre, never mind O’Connell Street.
The detail of the planning decision here is unclear to me on a number of levels. It seems the conditions dictate that a revised shopfront design based on a Wide Streets Commission model be reinstated here, but this is not referenced in the report itself. Similarly, it is conditioned that ‘render may be stripped’ to the upper floors, but it doesn’t specify which building – it seems to suggest the corner post-1916 rendering, even though this wasn’t proposed. Painting is also mentioned, but again it’s unclear if this is the brickwork of the neighbouring building or the rendered building. To be honest, I’m glad this has been kept loose as this all needs to be kept firmly in the hands of conservation guidance, but a fresh planning application with very specific proposals would be more desirable.
Ultimately, the idea here is to reinstate the entire arcaded Wide Streets Commission series of shopfronts across the entire group of buildings, which I believe will work exceptionally well as a unit – not as well fragmented. If everyone is on a level playing field then commercially the terrace has strong potential to be a success – particularly with the wide pavement outside. It is also an aspiration to return all of the upper facades to their 1780s exposed brick, but this is fraught with technical complications and needs to be carefully considered. It was a central part of both of the recent applications, either to strip render, add render, or repair/paint render, but much more joined-up thinking is required. This is also where a National Lottery Heritage Fund is so useful, if it existed.
As we speak, new 1780s sash windows have just been installed on the westernmost property following on from unauthorised works last year when nasty clunky double-glazed sashes went in. They look great. The intention with this building is to trial render removal and/or in the meantime paint it a nice muted colour of c.1900 date. The WSC shopfront will take some structural planning to ensure the upper facade is correctly supported.
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