Ambitious personal project….
- This topic has 17 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 19 years, 8 months ago by
Anonymous.
- AuthorPosts
- March 9, 2006 at 5:18 am #708489
Grif
ParticipantHi folks,
OK, I realise I’ll be setting myself up for a flaming here but….
I’m embarking on the design of my house, on my own, from scratch… with absolutely NO experience in the architectural/building trade bar designing brochures!Mad you say, well, I thought I’d give it a whirl and try to learn something new in the process.
So, I was wondering, if I was to post a link to a PDF of initial plans, would you kind folks be able to give me any “constructive” criticism / suggestions?
The design is definitely not your average bungalow and I’m sure I’d have a nightmare getting planning, but I had an idea I wanted to scratch.
Thanks in advance….. I think… π
Grif
- March 9, 2006 at 6:23 pm #775644
maggie
ParticipantGo on, work away…..
- March 9, 2006 at 9:00 pm #775645
sw101
Participanti’d love to see the design.
have you referenced any construction guides or design data literature?
- March 10, 2006 at 3:44 pm #775646
Grif
Participanthttp://www.page7media.ie/grif/index.htm
Well I have used other existing plans as reference. I’m sure i’m gonna be way off in some areas but it’s a start π
The 3d renderings were done previous to current revisions on plans so only serve to give a general idea.
Also the floor plans have been revised more recenlty than the elevations.
I might add that I was contemplating a timberframe pre-fab construction for the main-2 story section of the house. The wing would be block and faced with somethingorother. I do know of a derelict cottage that I could possibly get for the facing stone.
In respect to all the glass. Well i’m really open to suggestion here. Originally I had the idea of using WallGlass but i have no idea how suitable or efficient (or expensive) it is for domestic use. http://www.careyglass.com/wall_glass.html i sent them a mail but haven’t had a response yet. Other alternatives would be something like those large swedish sliding glass doors. I have seen them used on Cabin-type houses (Glenmalure, Wicklow) before and they’re very impressive. I have also come across a US company that make a consertina-based hinged/tracked glass wall system. No idea on costs or heat efficiency.
In terms of costing the whole build. I have no idea really. I’d like to think I could do it for about €110-€140 p sq ft If I use my noggin, but, again, i’ve no idea of that possibility. I’d like to get the design to stage where i can have it QS’d. Currently the size is ~2100 sq ft, I could, reduce that to under 2k If I had to.
Site. well this is where the fun starts. I want it built in Wicklow….like everyone else i suppose. I have a site in mind that’s a little under 3/4 acre with existing properties on either side. I have ‘family connections’ to this site i’m hoping will help with planning but i dunno. from what i hear anything other than a thatched cottage or a 12house mini-dev get’s refused down there. The idea of a dormer bungalow makes me ill π
All comments appreciated.
Cheers,
Grif - March 10, 2006 at 4:34 pm #775647
sw101
Participantdecent model considering it’s your first effort. the floor plans would be a bit more useful, and the context the house is to sit in if you can. looks good though.
- March 10, 2006 at 4:45 pm #775648
- March 10, 2006 at 4:49 pm #775649
Grif
ParticipantI’ve also edited my post above. The site in question is a .70 acre site. west facing with lane frontage to the east. Other houses are to North and South.
- March 10, 2006 at 7:35 pm #775650
Frank Taylor
ParticipantYou are missing
dormer windows
victorian effect PVC bay windows
4 car garage
concrete eagle gate posts
scale model of the 5 lamps
50,000 tons of gravel for your driveAlso it is ridiculously small. What will your neighbours think of you?
I can’t see it ‘blending in’. - March 10, 2006 at 7:58 pm #775651
Grif
Participantheh, grand, i’ll add them in immediately so…..
- March 10, 2006 at 11:21 pm #775652
henry
ParticipantI think you did very wel. the form of the house looks good with the different massing and the materials look good too. The plans however when you look closely is a little under generous size wise. I would try to increase the size of everything a little. You’re walk in wardrobe doesnt look like you could get into it. Your bathdroom down stairs is far too small. The hotpress apprears to be off of the master bedroom and the utility seems to be tiny. i would also try to change the east elevation as the 6 windows looks a bit monotonous.
but its nice to see something other than bunglaow bliss
These are just my personal opinions and are not to be taken as criticisms
as far as getting planning stick to your guns-once you have good reasons and evidence to back these up the council will usually grant…even in wicklow
If you do alot of the work yourself you will save money.ie diect labour
however if you do not qualify under SS9 then forget about it
Good Luck - March 10, 2006 at 11:42 pm #775653
DJM
ParticipantNice touch Frank π
I think it’s a great scheme (the 3D drawings look fantastic – what the CAD package?) I like the simple shapes and sharp lines. The broad range of materials gel together particularly well.
You seem to have cut back drastically on the timber cladding in East Elevation Rev A (outline) drawing. π That’s a pity – it really did look fab, but you can’t have everything I suppose!
- March 11, 2006 at 9:47 pm #775654
Grif
Participantthanks a mill for the comments guys, very much appreciated. π Lemme see if I can reason some of your very valid points.
I agree about the wardrobe, utility and some of the scaling. And I also agree that the east elevation could do with some work, It had been bugging me. In relation to the wooden cladding, it’s not as expansive on the elevations but i do like it’s expanse on the 3d renderings, costs will factor in how much is used at the end of the day.
One thing I found when working on this is that’s it’s quite difficult to get a sense of scale when working on floor plans. My idea was to put as much space as I could into living areas and master bedroom. at the cost of the 3rd bedroom, and, it seems, the downstairs bathroom. I wanted to keep the design as close to 2000sq ft as possible. (again costs) I would, however, like to add an extension after 3-5 years. Considering a 2 story extension to the north of the house adding 2 bedrooms. This was why i put the Hot Press where it is as I would want to add a door in the north wall of the upstairs landing, Hmm, If i do this, i’ll have to move the main entrance now also. I’ll ghost in the idea over the weekend. I suppose I could also take the space form the upstairs bathroom rather than the bedroom…. lots to work on π
DJM, I’m using Maxon’s Cineam4d for the 3d work. Don’t want to detail it too much yet until i get plans somewhat sorted.
In relation to taking on the build myself. Work, unfortunately, will not allow me to spend any daytime on site. I would think this would be required to manage any decent build project. So, prolly gonna try to find someone to manage it for me.
Again, thanks π
- March 15, 2006 at 1:55 am #775655
Grif
Participanthi folks,
Something i could do with a bit of help on is ceiling height. Currently I have it set to 2.60m (~8’6″) on the ground floor and the same again on the 1st floor. Is this suffient? Also I was wondering how best to handle the thickness of the 1st floor. Currently set to .22m.Thanks in advance.
- March 15, 2006 at 5:01 am #775656
DJM
ParticipantHi Grif. Have you got a copy of Homebond’s ‘House Building Manual’? Drop what you’re doing and go and get one. π It’d be a very useful resource for your project. Easons and the like should stock it.
The standard floor to ceiling height for domestic dwellings is 2.4m, so 2.6 is more than adequate. 2.4 is a standardised size that plasterboard panels come in. Breaking from these standardised dimensions will inevitably involve more materials, manpower & therefore cost as plasterboard panels will need to be cut to fill the 200mm gap. Hopefully someone will advise on the likely cost implications – I’ve no idea.
Having said all that though, higher ceilings will give a much greater sense of space – well worth it in my opinion, if finances allow.
Standardisation of sizes is common practice throughout the construction industry, as it simplifies the construction process for the builder, enabling them to construct things quicker & therefore cheaper for the client.
It’s common to find components that share sizes, or can easily relate to others, for eg, 100, 225, 300, 500, 600, 1000mm etc. In this example, (are you using blockwork internal walls?) the height of 11 blocks including mortar joints works out to be 2465mm which allows a 2.4m plasterboard panel to be installed (with a margin allowed for tolerance). This is something to bear in mind during the design stage!!
Floor thickness can vary, but you’re in and around the right mark. Typical joist sizes (is it a suspended timber floor?) taken from Homebond are 175, 200, 225mm. Your choice will depend on the relationship between the distance that the joists are required to span and the distance between joists.
I’d agree with henry that the East Elevation does look very imposing – are you trying to frighten away the local kids? I’d be terrified! π I once stayed in a spooky old converted monastery in Mayo that had a monk’s graveyard below my bedroom window and it reminds me of its projecting gable ends on the front elevation. π (Lighthearted reminiscing on my part, not to be taken as criticism!)
Regards,
DJM.
- March 15, 2006 at 2:25 pm #775657
Grif
ParticipantGreat stuff DJM, thanks.
Ordering book now. Why do I feel like Pandora’s box is about to open? πYea, the east elevation is bugging me too. I’ve updated the floor plans a bit since, but i’ll hold off uploading till i sort out the east elev. and wall heights.
Cheers
- March 16, 2006 at 2:52 am #775658
Bren88
ParticipantAs DJM said 2.4m is the min, and it is fine, but the 200mm (8in) in no harm. But if your going to go for a pre-fab timber construction for the main section (from earlier post). Then it would probably be alot cheaper to use their standard, but still look into it.
As for the floor thickness, the maxium span accross the dining room/kitchen is 5.4m. This is quite a large span and needs joists measuring 75×225. The spacing of the joists would be 300mm (with strenght class 14) or (400mm with C16). In the ground floor bedroom area, a more standard 44×225 jist can be used. You could use more shallow joist need for the short span, but it’s easier to keep ceiling heights the same.
So the floor thickness will be around 260mm including floor and ceiling.If your updated floor plans have different spans in them let me know and i’ll revise the joists sizes.
- March 21, 2006 at 5:00 pm #775659
Grif
ParticipantThanks Bren, will do.
- March 21, 2006 at 8:00 pm #775660
Anonymous
InactiveHi Grif.
Firstly, well done on this project. It looks very interesting. I don’t think I can be of much help, but I just had a few thoughts/questions.
Whilst in your renderings you have the house on what seems to be a completely flat horizontal plane, I am wondering what the surrounding landscape is like and how the house is to be situated within it? For me the landscape should be a primary consideration when deciding on your design. Don’t get me wrong, it looks good. I am just wondering how it relates to its surroundings.
I was also wondering if you are planning on installing any energy efficient sytems into the house? Any plans for solar panels, geothermal heating etc?
Good luck with it,
Phil
- AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
